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岩脊割断主绳 意大利攀岩者在英遭遇主绳断裂事故

岩点——严肃的中文攀岩新媒体Italian climber Michele Caminati takes a

↑ Mich Caminati 从高处坠落

 Italian climber Michele Caminati takes a terrifying ground fall after his rope severs on the sharp, gritstone arête of The Elder Statesman (HXS 7a), around 5.14 R/X in Y.D.S., at Curbar in the Peak District of the U.K.

3 月 28 日,在位于英国峰区(Peak District)的 Curbar 攀爬难度为 7a/5.14 R/X(R/X 意味着坠落有致命危险)的 The Elder Stateman 路线上,意大利攀岩者 Michele Caminati 的主绳被尖锐的粗砂石刃脊割断,导致他从高处惊险坠地,攀岩者和保护员皆负重伤。

Caminati had made a rare repeat of the route—first freed in 2004 by Steve McClure—on Monday, March 27. He returned the next day to climb the route again for photos when he slipped at the crux. Caminati’s last piece of protection, the last on the route, was on the other side of the sharp arête. He was using a single rope, and when he fell, it rubbed over the sharp edge and cut all the way through. Caminati fell around eight meters to the ground and landed on his belayer.

The Elder Stateman 路线于 2004 年被 Steve McClure 首攀,此后完攀者寥寥。Caminati 早前在 3 月 27 日(周一)完攀了此路线,第二天,他前来再次挑战想拍些照片,结果在难点处失手。当时 Caminati 的最后一个传统保护点在石脊的另一面,他只用一根单绳攀爬,于是当他坠落时,主绳擦过锋利的岩石边缘并直接被割断成两截。Caminati 在大约八米的自由落体之后坠落在了他的保护员身上。

  ↑ 冲坠前后 来源:UKClimbing 摄影师:Mike Hutton


The local Edale Mountain Rescue team brought both climbers to the hospital. Caminati fractured his wrist and heel in multiple places, and his belayer suffered a concussion.

当地的 Edale 山地救援队将两位攀岩者送去了医院。Caminati 的手腕和脚后跟多处骨折,他的保护员则被诊断为脑震荡。

From the hospital, Caminati told “I saw everything live, I totally remember the accident, I was completely aware of what was happening … As I fell I got ready to hit the wall, but then the rope broke and I fell onto my belayer and then hit the ground, probably first with my wrist.

Caminati 在医院中告诉记者(“我看见了事件中的每个细节,我能完全回忆起整个事故过程,并且我完全清楚发生了什么……当我坠落时,我已经准备好蹬墙,但主绳在那刹那断裂,我直坠到我的保护员身上然后撞上地面,大概是手腕先着的地。”

“Fortunately I’m fine, I’ve got multiple fractures in my wrist, but the operation went well and my tendons are unaffected … My heel is broken in several places, but they’re compound fractures and I’ve been told it won’t need operating… all in all it should take four to six months to get back to normal… yeah!”


↑ McClure 徒手首攀 The Elder Statesman 


When McClure made the first free ascent of The Elder Statesman, he used three ropes because he was afraid of the sharp edge. Other climbers who have repeated the route, such as Steve Dunning and James Pearson [watch video here], used double ropes—a common practice on these traditionally protected, gritstone climbs.

出于对岩石锋利边缘的担心,McClure(该路线首攀者)在徒手首攀 The Elder Statesman 路线时使用了三根绳索。其他攀登过此路线的攀岩者,例如 Steve Dunning 和 James Pearson,则使用了双绳保护——这是有保护传统攀登中攀登粗砂石的惯常做法。


↑ Jams Pearson 完攀 The Elder Statesman 


“I went up in the European style, with only one 10mm rope and without a helmet,” Caminati told “This time I fell off the crux and the rope, whilst getting tense shore off against the corner. I thought I would have been safe. Perhaps I could have used the half ropes but the outcome could have been the same.”

“我爬上去时采用了欧式爬法,只用了一根 10mm 主绳,并且没有戴头盔,”Caminati 告诉记者(,“这次当我在难点处脱手时,主绳一边绷紧一边向角落偏离。我没有预料到我会出事。我想,就算我当时用了半绳保护,大概结果还是会出事。”


Single rope:单绳

Half rope:半绳

Twin rope:孪绳



   Rock and Ice wishes Michele a fast recovery. For everyone else, climb safe out there this weekend.





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